How to Sew a False Pocket on Jeans and Skirts

How to Sew a False Pocket on Jeans and Skirts

I know we all love pockets, but sometimes on tight fitting jeans, jeggings or skirts I want the design feature, but not the bulk of a real pocket bag. If you look on your ready to wear garments they will often feature a false pocket for this very reason. Here's how to create your own and bust some scraps at the same time.

Create the False Pocket Pattern Piece

Draw the curve of the false pocket on the front skirt or trouser pattern piece and cut it out.

Draw the straight of grain on the false pocket piece you have created (this will be parallel to the one on the front skirt or trouser piece).

Extend the depth of the curve on the false pocket piece by 1" or 2.5cm.

If you don't have a pocket facing create one by tracing the curve on the skirt or trouser piece. In my example the facing is 2 and 3/4" or 7cm deep, however, you could reduce it to an inch or so.

Ensure the short edges of the facing will meet the waist seam and side seam of the skirt or trouser pattern piece when it is positioned on the curve.

Creating a False Pocket Pattern Piece

Sew the False Pocket

If working with thicker or bulkier fabrics such as denim I like to cut the pocket facing out of cotton lawn or something similar.

Cut the false pocket piece and skirt or trouser piece out of your fabric.

Pin the pocket facing to the skirt/trouser fabric right sides together and stitch with a 3/8" seam.

False Pocket Facing Sewing a False Pocket Facing

Trim and clip the seam then understitch the facing and press to the wrong side of the main fabric.

Position the false pocket piece so that it matches up with the side seam and waist seam and the right side of the pocket fabric is next to the right side of the facing fabric and stitch in place.

Sewing a False Pocket 2

Trim the excess facing fabric (as mentioned above you could reduce the depth of the pocket facing, but I like to have plenty of room for error).

Sewing a False Pocket on Trousers or Skirts

Lift the curve and overlock the pocket fabric and facing fabric together for a nice neat finish. Take care to move the skirt/trouser fabric out of the way.

Overlocking the Curve of a False Pocket

Topstitch the curve of the false pocket to secure and add some cute detail.

Top Stitching a False Pocket

Here it is from the right side and the wrong side.

Right side view Inside view

Shopping List

Chaco pen

Tissue paper

Have fun sewing!


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