How to Sew an All In One Double Sleeve Cuff
This double cuff tutorial is a great way to change the sleeve design of a garment. I always think a rolled up cuff looks modern and casual. A kind of 'I just threw this on, but my look is totally put together' vibe. Learn how to do it in just a few easy steps.
Inspired by this ready to wear dress I recently decided to make view B of the gorgeous new Simplicity 8608 pattern.
To get the look I needed to adapt the sleeve design. On the ready to wear dress the sleeve was simply rolled up. However, Angela suggested I add a double cuff. This would look more professional and you wouldn't see the wrong side of the fabric where the sleeves were rolled up. Here's how I did it:
Sewing the Double Cuff
I measured the original sleeve pattern piece against my arm and identified where I wanted the sleeve to finish. Then I added the necessary cuff length by measuring how deep I wanted the finished, folded cuff to be and multiplying by four taking into account the seam allowance.
In my case the original sleeve pattern was flared at the end and much wider than it needed to be for the cuff. Therefore I pinned the sleeve seam and tried it on then pinned the new seamline tapering back to the original seamline at the armhole. It was important to remember not to make the sleeve too tight so I was able to get it on and off.
Once the sleeve is the correct length sew the sleeve seam.
If necessary apply a suitable interfacing to the cuff section of the fabric. I was working with a lightweight, drapey viscose fabric and applied a lightweight interfacing because I wanted the cuff to have some structure. If you are working with a heavier fabric, such as a cotton poplin, you might only need to interface half of the cuff section or none at all.
Turn the sleeve the right way and fold the raw edge of the sleeve inside itself until the raw edge lines up with the point where the interfacing finishes. This is only the case if you are interfacing the whole cuff section. If you are only partially interfacing, or not at all, fold the sleeve inside itself until the raw edge is where you want the cuff to start.
Turn the cuff back on the sleeve and pin in place where the fold meets the raw edge.
Remove the blade from your overlocker. This is very important otherwise you might cut a hole in your sleeve! Position the raw edge and fold accordingly on your overlocker and stitch in place making sure the stitches encase the raw edge.
You have now stitched the cuff in place and finished the raw edges in one simple step.
Press the seam allowance towards your sleeve. I used a sleeve press, which is inserted inside the sleeve before pressing.
Turn the sleeve the right way and you have a neat cuff.
Finally fold the cuff back on itself and you have your casual rolled up sleeve look without the wrong side of the fabric showing. I slip stitched round the cuff edge to secure it.
I hope you've enjoyed this handy tutorial I thought it was such a clever little tip. Stay tuned to see the finished dress next week.
Have fun sewing!
Lucy and Angela
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