Sewing the Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse

I am a big fan of blouses yet I have never owned a pussy bow blouse. Scandalous I know! Bored of the limited selection of blouses in my wardrobe I decided to whip up the Sew Over It pussy bow blouse. I heard it was a super easy make and we had some deliciously drapey viscose in stock, which was the perfect partner.

Full front view

Cutting and Adjustments

I cut a size 10 - my bust measurement was spot on, but my waist was an inch bigger than the packet measurements. The blouse is fairly loose fitting so I knew this would be fine. You can find the pattern here.

Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse Pattern Packet

I chose the V neck view because I think a V neck is much more flattering on me. When looking for style inspiration I saw keyhole and V neck pussy bow blouses in my favourite high street stores. In other words whichever view you choose it looks like you're onto a winner in the fashion stakes.

I made my usual high round back adjustment (see blog post here on how to do this). I also moved the shoulder seams forward 3/8".

To make the shoulder adjustment I usually cut a bigger size at the shoulder seam to allow me room for manoeuvre. Then I try it on and pin it into the correct position before sewing. This works brilliantly in stiffer fabrics, but was quite tricky to do with a drapey, slippery viscose! I should have done it by the book and altered the pattern piece first really. Tut tut.

Front view

The Sleeves

Sleeves are always too short for me. Like always. Bearing this in mind I decided to check the length placing the pattern piece along my arm. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the sleeves seemed long enough. However, I decided to meddle!

I decided to add on an extra inch to be on the safe side. I was being lazy not checking the exact measurements using the pattern piece and thought I could alter it later if necessary. Unfortunately I didn't think about this until after I had attached the cuff and caused myself extra work.

I had to unpick the cuff, shorten the sleeve then reattach it. This meant I lost most of the lovely slit down the sleeve and have to squeeze my wrists through as a result. How annoying! I also got the positioning of the loops slightly wrong second time around. This meant they were a little snug round the buttons, but I can still squeeze them through.

The Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse

I cut 2 and a half inches off the sleeves when I shortened them. In hindsight I think I made them a little too short - argh! In fact I think they would probably have been the perfect length if I just left well alone and used the original pattern piece!

The moral of the story - check the sleeve length properly before cutting them out. The cuff is supposed to sit right on the wrist to allow the sleeves to billow out a little so bear this in mind. I have longer than average arms and the pattern was probably spot on for me length wise. If you have 'standard' or shorter length arms you may need to adjust the length.

Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse Sleeves

Inserting the sleeves was a breeze. I always hate this step and I don't know whether it was thanks to the viscose, but they slipped into place perfectly.

Back view

Sewing and Instructions

This was the first time I had sewn a Sew Over It pattern so I was interested to see how the instructions compared to other pattern companies. I'm pleased to say they were crystal clear! Every step was clearly explained and accompanied by useful sketches to help you visualise them.

It was an incredibly quick and easy project and I thoroughly enjoyed making it.

Additional Steps/Changes

There were a couple of additional steps I added when pressing the neck tie. The instructions suggested pressing it flat after sewing. I chose to press the seams open first then rolled the seamline under to the wrong side when pressing the tie flat so it wouldn't be visible. I suppose tying the bow might mean you get a little glimpse of the seamline, but old habits die hard and I have always been taught to do this. If you do add this step in just take care to make sure you roll it under to the correct side.

Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse Neck Tie

I also found the rouleau loops for the buttons on the sleeves seemed a bit chunky. The pattern suggested using a 5/8" seam, but I used a 3/8" seam instead. I used one of my favourite overlocker tips for making the loops, which you can see here.

Tips and Tricks

I used our self cover buttons and interfaced the fabric to make it a little more sturdy. There is a template provided so you can cut the right sized circle of fabric. Then you sew a gathering stitch round the edge of the circle and use the thread to pull the fabric in around the button. When you come to assemble the button a useful tip is to use a pin to poke any fabric in that you haven't quite managed to catch.

Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse Rouleau Loops and Buttons

When edge stitching the wrist slits I used a 1/4" foot. This is because my standard presser foot wasn't holding the fabric in place. Due to the design of the 1/4" foot there was more of the foot in contact with the fabric holding it in the correct position for sewing.

Final Thoughts

I'm really pleased with this blouse and thoroughly enjoyed making it. It will definitely become a tried and tested pattern for me. If I hadn't meddled with the sleeve length it was a super quick and easy sew and I love the blouse itself. It drapes beautifully in all the right places and feels like a very flattering fit. I've also seen people make the V neck version minus the bow, which I am keen to try.

The breathable and light viscose will be perfect for those spring/summer days when it isn't warm enough to get your arms out, but something cool and comfortable is in order.

I also love the way I can wear it with jeans or tucked into a high waisted skirt for two totally different looks.

The pattern was really well drafted and everything fitted together beautifully. All in all a resounding success and a third garment ticked off my #makenine list.

45 view

Shopping List

Sew Over It pussy bow blouse pattern.

Sadly the viscose is now sold out, however any of these alternatives would be a great choice:

Have fun sewing!

Lucy

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