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Sewing Ideas and Inspiration
This week I'm sharing my latest dressmaking project with you - a gorgeous Simplicity 8606 wrap skirt with a bang on trend flounce sewn up in our bright, mood lifting mustard John Kaldor crepe de chine fabric.
I often spend a lot of time wistfully admiring a trend from afar, but doing nothing about it.
Thinking how wonderful various women look sporting said trend without my brain actually reaching the point where I realise I can be one of those women!
Eventually the penny drops and the hunt for a pattern and fabric begins so I can finally get the look.
This exact chain of events happened with the midi or maxi length wrap skirt paired with a Tshirt, biker jacket and pumps. A great contemporary look and I am finally on board!
I knew I wanted a nice bright colour for the skirt fabric since I would be pairing it with white pumps and neutral tops. Plus bright colours instantly lift my mood and we all need a lift right now.
I was dreaming of using our mustard John Kaldor crepe de chine fabric and browsed my skirt sewing patterns pin board for inspiration.
As soon as I spotted Simplicity 8606 I knew it would be a match made in heaven. The crepe de chine would work beautifully for the flounce hem panel.
I dutifully cut the pattern and fabric out then realised the fabric was rather sheer for a skirt - what a rookie error! After five years of sewing you'd think I'd remember to check.
Undeterred I set to problem solving. I actually love this part of a sewing project now I'm more experienced and confident.
I remembered a lovely dress I made in a double Georgette fabric a few years ago and how I lined it with our polycotton fabric, which worked really well.
I cut the main skirt pieces out of some white polycotton, but left the flounce unlined.
I cut a straight size 14 based on my waist and hip measurements with no adjustments.
The great thing about a wrap skirt there is room for a little bit of error. Just check the side seams are in the right place as a guide.
Simplicity 8606 is a nice, simple, satisfying sew.
I sewed the skirt panels together then tacked the lining in place at the waist seam before attaching the waistband.
To finish the hem I sewed a three thread overlock stitch along the raw edge, pressed it up and top stitched it down with my 1/4" foot. I prefer this method to a double fold in the fabric because it is less bulky and therefore hangs nicely in such a lightweight fabric.
I like to use the 1/4" foot because it has a lot of contact with the fabric, which prevents it from moving around, especially useful when working with slippery and narrow sections of fabric.
To give the waistband the required stiffness I used two layers of fusible interfacing since one layer wasn't enough.
I read this suggestion years ago in a sewing magazine and tested it on a scrap of fabric first to make sure I got the desired results. I made sure everything was very well secured before applying the second layer.
I thoroughly enjoyed some good old stitching in the ditch to secure the waistband, but didn't quite catch the fabric in a couple of places and had to go back and re-sew these sections.
My friend Anne reminded me of the option to overlock the raw edge of the fabric instead of pressing it under on the waistband to avoid this problem in future. I can't believe I forgot this one!
When I overlocked the seam allowances I trimmed them down to about 3/8" for less bulk and visibility in this lightweight fabric.
Overall I'm thrilled with this project, it was fun to sew and I feel great wearing something so frilly that can be dressed down enough for every day, especially at a time when I've got nowhere to go!
Lucy
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