Sewing is a rewarding and creative skill, but when you're first starting out, sewing patterns can feel like reading a foreign language. Terms like "grainline," "notches," and "seam allowance" might seem intimidating, but once you understand them, they become second nature. This guide will help you decode common sewing pattern terminology, making it easier to follow patterns and create beautiful garments with confidence.
What is a Sewing Pattern?
A sewing pattern is a template used to cut fabric pieces that will be sewn together to create a finished garment or project. Patterns provide essential information, including fabric recommendations, sewing instructions, and markings to guide assembly. They come in various forms, from traditional paper patterns to digital PDFs that can be printed at home.
Why Understanding Sewing Pattern Terminology Matters for Beginners
Learning the language of sewing patterns is crucial for beginners because it prevents confusion and helps avoid common mistakes. Once you grasp these terms, you'll be able to:
- Follow instructions smoothly without second-guessing each step.
- Adjust patterns to fit your body more accurately.
- Troubleshoot issues and make modifications with confidence.
Mastering sewing pattern terminology is the foundation for developing your sewing skills and bringing your creative ideas to life.
It is worth mentioning that there are lots of sewing patterns for beginners on our site from a wide range of brands. They will usually say something like 'easy sew' or 'for beginners' on the pattern packet and it is worth looking out for these designs when you are first starting out because they are simpler to sew and understand.
Fundamental Sewing Pattern Terms
Seam Allowance and Why It’s Important
Seam allowance refers to the extra fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric. Patterns specify a standard seam allowance, typically 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) for garment sewing. Ignoring seam allowance can lead to garments that are too tight or too loose, making this a crucial concept to understand.
In modern sewing patterns the seam allowance is usually included, but it is always worth double checking. It will tell you somewhere near the beginning, in the instructions, both whether it is included and how much it is. In some sewing patterns it can be different to the standard 1.5cm or 5/8 inch, for example, some knit and jersey patterns will only have a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch seam allowance.
If you're using vintage sewing patterns you have to add the seam allowance in some cases, however, it is easier to start with modern ones where the seam allowances are included and the instructions are usually a lot more detailed and helpful too.
Grainline and Fabric Alignment
The grainline is an arrow printed on pattern pieces that shows how they should be aligned with the fabric’s grain. Correct grainline alignment ensures that garments drape well and do not become distorted after washing.
- Straight grain: Runs parallel to the selvedge and provides stability (the selvedge is the finished edges of the fabric as opposed to the ends that have been cut off the roll or bolt).
- Cross grain: Runs perpendicular to the selvedge and has more stretch.
- Bias grain: Runs diagonally across the fabric and allows for extra drape and movement. Extra care should be taken when cutting and sewing any pieces cut on the bias because they are much easier to stretch out of shape.
Understanding and following the grainlines ensures that your finished garment retains its intended shape and fit.
Notches and Their Role in Assembly
Notches are small triangles or slashes on pattern edges that help align fabric pieces during sewing. They ensure that sections like sleeves, bodices, and skirts match up correctly. There are different types of notches, including:
- Single notches: Often indicate the front of a garment piece, for example, the front of a sleeve or bodice.
- Double notches: Typically mark the back of a garment piece, for example, the back of a sleeve or bodice.
- Triple notches: Used in more complex sewing patterns, often for tailored garments.
Marking and matching notches properly saves time and prevents misaligned seams.
Cut on Fold: What It Means and How to Use It
When a pattern piece has a "cut on fold" marking, it means you should place the edge of the pattern piece labelled 'cut on fold' or similar along the folded fabric rather than cutting it separately. This technique ensures symmetry in garment sections, such as bodices and skirts, and helps avoid unnecessary seams.
Right Side vs. Wrong Side: Avoiding Common Mistakes
The right side of the fabric is the side meant to be visible on the finished garment, while the wrong side faces inward. Some fabrics have no visible distinction between sides, so marking them with chalk or stickers before cutting can prevent confusion during assembly.
You might find our article on how to choose, prepare and cut dressmaking fabric useful for a bit more information.
Beyond the Basics: Key Sewing Pattern Features
Darts: Shaping Fabric for Fit
Darts are triangular folds sewn into fabric to create shaping, often used in bodices and skirts to contour the fabric around the body, for example at the bust or waist. Properly sewn darts enhance garment fit, giving a professional finish to your sewing projects.
You might find our article on how to sew darts useful if you are a beginner.
Ease and Its Role in Comfort
Ease refers to the difference between body measurements and the garment’s actual size.
- Positive ease: Allows for movement (e.g., loose-fitting dresses and tops).
- Negative ease: Results in a snug fit, common in stretch fabrics like jersey.
- No ease: Found in very structured garments that fit closely without extra space.
Understanding ease ensures that garments fit comfortably and function as intended.
Hems: Finishing Techniques for Clean Edges
A hem is the folded and stitched edge of a fabric piece, providing a clean finish and preventing fraying, usually at the bottom of a skirt or dress or sleeve or trouser leg. Popular hem techniques include:
- Double-fold hem: Folding the fabric twice before stitching for a neat finish.
- Blind hem: Uses hidden stitches for an invisible finish.
- Rolled hem: Creates a delicate edge, often used in lightweight fabrics like chiffon.
Choosing the right hem technique enhances the durability and appearance of your sewing projects.
Understitching and Its Importance in Seam Finishing
Understitching is a technique where the lining or facing is sewn to the seam allowance to prevent it from rolling to the outside. This method ensures a crisp, professional finish on necklines and armholes.
Our how to sew an understitch article and video tutorial will show you how to complete this technique step by step.
Selvedge and How It Guides Fabric Cutting
Selvedge is the tightly woven edge of the fabric that prevents fraying. It helps with grainline alignment and ensures consistent fabric cutting. Avoid using the selvedge in visible parts of your garment, as it is often firmer and can affect drape. Unless there is a pretty selvedge and you can make a feature of it of course!
How to Read and Interpret a Sewing Pattern
Decoding a Sewing Pattern Envelope
Pattern envelopes contain vital details such as fabric requirements, body measurements, and difficulty levels.
Key details to check include:
- Sizing charts: To find the right size for your body measurements.
- Fabric recommendations: To ensure the pattern works with your chosen material.
- Notions list: Includes zips, buttons, interfacing, and other extras needed for the garment.
Reading the pattern envelope carefully helps you prepare properly before starting your project.
Understanding Symbols and Pattern Markings
Sewing patterns include symbols like dots, lines, and arrows to indicate cutting, stitching, and alignment points. Common markings include:
- Dotted lines: Indicate fold lines or optional stitch lines.
- Arrows: Show grainline direction for fabric placement.
- Dots and squares: Mark areas where pleats, gathers, dart points or buttonholes should be placed.
Mastering Sewing Patterns: Your Next Steps
Understanding sewing pattern terminology lays the foundation for confident sewing. With this knowledge, you'll be able to tackle patterns with greater ease, adjust them to your needs, and create garments that fit beautifully.
You may also find it useful to read our article a guide to reading and cutting out sewing patterns for additional tips and information.
What sewing project are you planning next? Whether it’s your first simple garment or a more advanced challenge, take it step by step and enjoy the process!
Keep practising, keep learning, and most importantly—keep sewing! Each project builds your skills and brings you closer to mastering your craft.
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