How to Finish a Neckline Facing without Overlocking

How to Finish a Neckline Facing without Overlocking

Last week I learned a great little tip for finishing a neckline facing without overlocking the raw edge. It is a super simple technique and takes a little more time, but if you're a sucker for a neat finish like me or making something special it might just come in rather handy.

This finish is not only a great option if you want a really clean finish on the inside of your garment, but also if you find overlocking stitches a little scratchy in this area or are worried about them being visible through the fabric.

It is also a great option if you don't have an overlocker and you would prefer not to use the overcasting stitch on your sewing machine.

Bear in mind this finish wouldn't be suitable for bulky fabrics.

Cut out the front and back neckline facings in both fusible interfacing and your chosen garment fabric.

Normally you would fuse the interfacing to the fabric at this stage, but not with this method!

Instead sew the front and back interfacing neckline facings together at the shoulder seams with the correct seam allowance and sew the front and back fabric neckline facings together at the shoulder seams with the correct seam allowance.

Sewing neckline facings together at the shoulder seams

Take care to ensure you sew the interfacing together right sides together as you would the fabric. You can tell the right side because it will be smooth whereas you will be able to feel the glue on the wrong side, it will feel rough and a little bumpy.

Trim the seam allowances down to about 1/4" and press the fabric seam allowances open.

Fabric neckline facings

Don't press the interfacing seam allowances open, this will only make a sticky mess on your iron.

Position the fabric facings and interfacing facings on top of one another right sides together matching up the shoulder seams and pin in place around the longer edge. This is the edge that will not be attached to the garment.

Pinning fabric and interfacing facings together

Sew with a 1/4" seam around the longer edge attaching the interfacing to the fabric making sure the shoulder seams are accurately lined up.

Sewing fabric and interfacing facings together

Turn the facings through to reveal the right sides and press in place to secure the interfacing to the fabric. I like to use my purple thang to push out the seam allowances, a nifty little gadget useful for lots of sewing tasks including easing fabric, threading elastic, 1/4" measurements and more.

Turning through with a purple thang Pressing neckline facings

You now have a lovely neat finish to your neckline facing and can attach the raw edge to your garment as usual.

Finished neckline facing

This finish is a little more time consuming than overlocking the raw edge of the facing, but is a great option if you want a really clean finish on the inside of your garment, or you find overlocking stitches a little scratchy in this area or are worried about them being visible through the fabric. It is also a great option if you don't have an overlocker and you would prefer not to use the overcasting stitch on your sewing machine.

I must give credit to Made by Rae, which is where I found this technique. We stock Rae's independent pattern company sewing patterns here.

You can view our full range of interfacings here and the fabric I used here.

Have fun sewing!

Lucy

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