Shirring is such an effective sewing technique to master and is actually much easier to sew than you might think. In this blog post I'll show you step by step how to sew shirring and give you my top tips for achieving neat, professional results. You can also watch my video to take you through the process.
Shirring is a great way to customise a charity shop find or cinch in a dress or top at the waist or bust. You could hack one of your favourite sewing patterns to include shirring or use one of our many sewing patterns with a shirred panel of fabric included. Here are some of my favourites:
Sewing Patterns with Shirring
New Look 6692 a gorgeous bohemian inspired maxi dress with a shirred back panel.
McCalls 8200 a contemporary blouse with square neckline and a shirred back panel.
The Style Arc Asha dress a modern, classic midi length dress with a shirred waist and cuffs.
The Viki Sews Gloria dress a fun and quirky dress combining a simple, fitted bodice and skirt with wow factor puff sleeves finished with a deep shirred cuff.
Preparing the fabric
Shirring works best on light to medium weight fabrics and is essentially a way of gathering the fabric with stretch. Heavier fabrics won't gather as well.
If you're adding a shirred panel to a pattern or garment as a hack and it is not included in the pattern bear in mind that shirring will usually reduce the width of the fabric by about half (see image below) therefore you will need to make the panel of fabric twice the width to compensate. Test on scraps of fabric first to be sure since different fabrics will behave differently.
If you're sewing a cuff or collar and need to hem your fabric, sew the hem first, before shirring. If you try and sew an even hem after shirring the fabric it will be very difficult.
An easy way to sew evenly spaced lines of stitching is to mark the right side of the fabric using a chaco pen or marker pen or pencil. Generally lines spaced 1/2" apart work well, although test on scraps of your chosen fabric first to make sure you are happy with the results.
If you'd rather not mark your fabric and have the option for needle positions on your sewing machine there is a way you can use this function to space the lines evenly at about 1/2" apart, keep reading for more info!
Preparing your sewing machine
To sew shirring you will need a reel of elastic thread for the bobbin and standard machine sewing thread for the needle. Elastic thread comes in a range of colours and I would recommend choosing a lighter coloured thread for lighter fabrics and a darker coloured thread for darker fabrics.
The elastic thread must be hand wound onto the bobbin, if you try and wind the bobbin using your sewing machine it will stretch the thread. As you hand wind the elastic thread onto the bobbin ensure it is taut, but not stretched and stop when the bobbin is 80 - 90% full.
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case in the usual way ensuring the elastic thread feeds through the relevant grooves.
Thread the needle in the usual way with your standard sewing thread then turn the handwheel whilst gently pulling the needle thread to bring the bobbin thread up.
Select a longer stitch length than usual probably 3.5mm - 4mm and sew in the usual way testing on scraps of fabric first to check you are happy with the results. Bear in mind the first row of stitches won't look very gathered, but as you add subsequent rows the effect will be exaggerated.
Sewing the shirring
When you start sewing back tack to secure the stitches at the beginning and the end in the usual way.
If you have marked lines on your fabric you can stitch in a ladder formation pivoting at each end rather than stopping and starting. This means the whole panel will be sewn in one continuous line unless your thread runs out first. If this happens just back tack to secure and start again.
If you haven't marked your fabric and want to use your sewing machine presser foot as a guide or you are sewing in the round you will need to stop and start each line of stitching separately back tacking at the beginning and end to secure.
To use needle positions on your sewing machine sew the first row of stitches in the normal way.
Before you sew the next row move the needle to the left most position and line the right edge of your presser foot up with the previous row of stitches. This will create rows of stitches about 1/2" apart. Back tack at the end to secure then repeat the process for each line.
As you sew more rows of shirring you will need to stretch the fabric out as you sew to sew the next row stitches accurately.
Stretch the fabric out as you sew to enable you to sew in neat parallel lines.
Steaming the shirring
Once you've sewn every row of stitches apply a good blast of steam using your iron to exaggerate the shirred effect even further.
Now go and enjoy your lovely new garment.
Shopping List
- Elastic thread for the bobbin
- Standard sewing thread for the needle
- Chaco pen
- Marker pens and pencils alternative
- Quilters ruler
Have fun sewing!
Lucy
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